It’s healthy, it’s fun and it’s just what our congested city needs more of. So why don’t more people cycle? Contrary to popular opinion, you don’t need to have a death wish to go biking in Hong Kong, but simply the right information and a good dose of energy. We can help you out with one of these.
Choosing a bike | Gear | Shops
Where to cycle | Biker Gangs | Uphill Battle
Choosing a bike
What kind of bike to get depends on what you want to use it for. But whatever that may be, make sure above all that the size is right for you. If your bike doesn’t match you size-wise, you’re in for a whole range of problems (looking lame being the least of them). Most bikes will set you back anywhere from $2,000-$10,000.
Mountain bikes
If you’re going off-road, you’ll need a mountain bike with at least front suspension to handle the bumps. Mountain bikes are popular these days because they’re multi-purpose, covering all terrain. However, if you’re planning to use it primarily on the road, forget the full-suspension. Hydraulic disc brakes are now popular for mountain bikes and work much better than the old wire or “v brakes” when wet.
Trusted brands: Cannondale, Trek, Specialized, Giant, Turner.
Road bikes
If you’re only ever going to be on the road, get a good road bike. The handlebars allow for varied grips during extended journeys, and the frame and wheels are built for maximum efficiency and speed. The gears on any decent road bike will be enough get you up and down steep roads.
Trusted brands: Same as mountain bikes.
Hybrids
Midway between mountain bikes and road bikes, these essentially retain the look of the former with the comfort and efficiency of the latter. Or as some put it, they’re for posers.
Foldables
If you’re not going off-road or on long distances, consider a foldable. A good model will be perfectly road-worthy, even if it isn’t the fastest thing around. And of course, it’s perfect for cramped city living.
Trusted brands: Strider, Daihon.
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Gear
As with choosing a bike, what you need depends on what you’ll be doing. If it’s really leisurely “family” cycling, you won’t need (or want) anything more than the bike. If it’s more rigorous road riding, you’ll want a good helmet, dark glasses (mainly for the pollution these days), cycling jersey and shorts, biking shoes, and plenty of liquid (many bikers now use water packs). For mountain biking, make sure you’ve got a colorful jersey to alert hikers, as well as gloves and the necessary armor – knee and elbow pads for cross-country; full-face helmet and half- or full-body suits for downhill. Read on for our picks below, with suggested prices, and available at most of the following shops.
The Gear
 | Helmet – Bell, Sweep XC, $1,198 | |
 | Water pack – Zefal, $238 | |
 | Backpack – TSG, $298 | |
 | Sunglasses – Oakley radar, $1,880 | |
 | Elbow – TSG, $328 | |
 | Suit Jersey – Giant, $458 | |
 | Body armor – 661, $780 | |
 | Riding light – Cat Eye, $2,760 | |
 | Knee Guard – Fox, $598 | |
 | Shoes – Shimano m300, $1,980 |
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Shops
Flying Ball Bicycle Company
G/F, 478 Castle Peak Rd., Cheung Sha Wan, 2381-3661
Deemed the best bicycle shop in Asia by Lonely Planet, Flying Ball stocks all the most reliable bike brands from Turner to Cannondale. Its knowledgeable Cantonese-and English-speaking staff will answer questions about everything from bikes to good cycling areas to fitness information. Best for those willing to fork out.
Friendly Bicycle Shop
G/F, Shop 12, Mui Wo Centre, Lantau Island, 2984-2278
A favorite among genuine biker enthusiasts. Just off the ferry and right around the corner from McDonald’s, this is an excellent place for both renting and buying bikes, as well as for any last minute spare parts or tune-ups you might need before venturing out in Lantau. The name also holds true, with staff eager to talk to customers about all the different routes around the island.
Bicycle World
G/F, 15 Wood Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-2299
The best cycling shop on Hong Kong Island, Bicycle World boasts a wide range of bikes, from really cheap models to premium quality brands.
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Where to cycle
Road cycling
1. Designated cycling paths
Marked paths are generally used by commuters and families. Anybody looking to go fast or get a good workout can forget about them. Not only are they often poorly designed and cluttered with street furniture, but pedestrians are liable to get in your way.
2. Tai Mei Tuk
For good leisurely riding as well as a bit of exercise, try heading along Plover Cove Reservoir to Chung Mei, and then up the hill to Brides’ Pool Waterfall. From there you can head on to Wu Kau Tang, a close walk away from Mirror Pool Waterfall.
3. South Lantua Water Catchment
For easy riding with some excellent views of the south side of Lantau, take this road along the water catchment from Pui O, past the Shek Pik Reservoir and almost all the way to Fan Lau. A flat, gentle ride great for anyone just starting out.
Mountain biking
4. Pak Tam Chung to Hoi Ha, Sai Kung Country Park
Perhaps the most controversial mountain biking path. Extreme uphill and stretches of bike-on-back walking have lead many bikers to declare it unfit for cycling at all. Its advocates suggest that the natural splendors by Yung Shue O along the way – including rock pools and mangroves – make it worth it.
5. The Tai Lam Network, Tai Lam Country Park
Tai Lam has the largest network of interconnected mountain biking trails in Hong Kong, with trails for both beginners as well and daredevils. The Tai Mo Shan trail is the best trail for hardcore downhill enthusiasts, and is popular for races. Meanwhile, the trails around Tai Lam Chung Reservoir are excellent for novices. Mountain biking guide “Bike Steve,” who leads new riders around the area in groups, says it has the best mountain biking trails in all of Asia. Trails are closed on Sundays.
6. High Junk Peak Trail, Clear Water Bay Country Park
This tough cross-country ride from the Ng Fai Tin exit on Clear Water Bay Road to Ha Shen Tuk offers spectacular views of Sai Kung and Port Shelter. Bikers ride along the scenic ridges of the Tseung Kwan O hills.
7. Dragon’s Back, Shek O Country Park
Especially popular with hikers, this section of the Hong Kong Trail affords some of the most scenic views of the water. Cyclists begin at Tai Tam Gap and end with a breezy downhill ride to Shek O Village. Good for new mountain bikers.
8. Discovery Bay to Nim Shue Wan
This moderate mountain biking trail can be done in under an hour and is popular with Discovery Bay residents. Starting at the golf course, it offers some good ups and downs all the way to the Trappist Monastery, from where cyclists can either head along the coast to Nim Shue Wan or turn and head back to Discovery Bay.
9. Chi Ma Wan Penninsula
A fairly technical trail, Chi Ma Wan is a largely circular route from Mui Wo to Pui O. There’s plenty of variation, from dense forest areas to paved roads to traditional villages, with few people along the way.
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Biker Gangs
Cycling doesn’t have to be a loner sport. From the major associations to guided rides to close-knit packs, here’s a list of cycling groups worth considering.
• The Hong Kong Cycling Association – Founded in 1960, this association works to promote all kinds of recreational cycling and organizes very frequent local and international races and events. www.cycling.org.hk• The Hong Kong Cycling Alliance – Campaigns for the safety and rights of ordinary cyclists on the road. hongkongside.com/hkcyclingalliance
• The Hong Kong Mountain Biking Association – Promotes the development of accessible mountain bike trails and mountain bike tourism. www.hkmba.org• Sincere Effort Racing Team – Sincerely daring mountain bikers. www.mtbunited.com• International Cyclists to Asia – This Hong Kong-based group organizes cycling tours in China, Mongolia, Vietnam, Malaysia and New Zealand. www.mountainbikingasia.com• Cross-Country HK – For newcomers after guided mountain biking tours or skills-building rides, UK-registered instructor “Bike Steve” is your best bet. The man has cycled from the UK to Hong Kong and across Australia, among other places. [email protected].• Fat Monkey – Expats with a penchant for very steep slopes. sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/fatmonkey
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Everyday cyclists face an uphill battle
Despite provisions for recreational cyclists in less dense areas, Hong Kong remains a notoriously unfriendly place for “functional cycling,” or cycling for transport. The most disturbing indicator of this dire state of affairs is the high rate of accidents involving everyday cyclists and automobiles. According to the government’s own report, 2005 saw 1,646 traffic accidents involving bicycles, with 1,399 injuries and eight deaths.
The government’s attitude towards everyday cyclists can be described as negligent at best, disdainful at worst. While other major cities around the world such as London and Sydney have embraced the environmental and individual health benefits of cycling, the local government as yet still refuses to recognize it as a proper mode of transport. “We don’t officially consider bicycles as vehicles,” says Ricky Chong of the Transport Department. “And we actually discourage people from cycling on busy roads.”
The Hong Kong Cycling Alliance works to reverse such attitudes, which unfortunately appear to hold sway among most current road-users other than cyclists. “A lot of people seem unaware that cycling is even legal on roads,” says Alliance member Robert Sai Wing-Chung. “I was riding my bike in Tai Po once when a woman told me that what I was doing wasn’t allowed. Believe it or not, I was actually on a marked cycle path at the time.” Cyclist and former bronze-winner at the Asian Games Brian Cook rides regularly in the New Territories, but has given up on marked paths altogether because they’re too dangerous. “Not that anyone on the roads has any more respect for cyclists,” he says; “I swear there are drivers who see me coming and then deliberately pull out right before me.”
The Cycling Alliance has consistently lobbied the government to counter such prevailing ignorance by revising its own refusal to recognize cycling as a mode of transport and launching an awareness campaign about cyclists’ rights on the road. Among other objectives, it also calls for the government to offer cycling skill courses and proficiency tests for learners, and for the improvement of existing cycle paths, currently cluttered with dangerous bollards and street furniture and designed to yield to the car.
In 2004, an official “Cycling Study” commissioned by the Transport Department itself (www.td.gov.hk/UtilityManager/Publication/upload/cyclingstudy.pdf) actually made several recommendations along similar lines. As yet, however, the Department has failed to endorse any of them. “I don’t even know that such a study exists,” replied Ricky Chong when asked about the matter.While regular cyclists clearly have a long road ahead of them, the Cycling Alliance remains wholeheartedly committed to advancing their cause. A hopeful sign came earlier this month when the Star Ferry announced it would continue allowing bikes on its Wan Chai-Tsim Sha Tsui route at no extra cost, after a successful trial period initiated as a result of lobbying by the Alliance (previously, bicycles were banned).
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