“Women want to upgrade their skincare routines but there are so many vitamins out there which can be confounding,” says Rita Linkner, a certified dermatologist and founder of RVL Skincare. “Each one comes in different formulations and concentrations. How and when you apply the product can also make a huge difference.”
Experts agree that vitamins essential to skin health include A, B, C and E. These can be used individually or in certain combinations to actively strengthen, revitalise and boost the quality of the skin. More recently, beauty companies have incorporated vitamins such as D and K into their products.
“Vitamin D3 is said to help decrease inflammation and normalise cell turnover, while vitamin K helps with skin elasticity and is often used to counteract swelling and bruising,” says Marie-Veronique Nadeau, founder of skincare brand Marie Veronique.
“Then there is vitamin P. ‘P’ stands for permeability factor, referring to capillary lining permeability. Vitamin P comprises the bioflavonoids that are especially important because they protect glycosaminoglycans [GAGs], collagen and elastin in the dermis. GAGs like hyaluronic acid keep the skin looking plump and youthful. A great source of vitamin P comes from green tea.”Experts caution that the source of a vitamin – natural versus lab-made, for example – can also make a difference. While Linkner suggests women opt for medical-grade skincare, there has been a movement towards alternatives derived from nature.
“There is no clear answer here in terms of efficacy – it very much comes down to your skin type and skin condition, and which formulations seem to work best for your skin,” says Newby Hands, global beauty director of Net-a-Porter. “Always be informed of which one provides which benefits. Ultimately it is always the formulation that is key rather than percentages and so on – a well-formulated product will always deliver the best results.”
Your guide to essential vitamins for skin health
Vitamin A
Benefits: “Vitamin A is the gold standard for rejuvenation – it is one of the only ingredients recognised by the FDA [US Food and Drug Administration] as anti-ageing,” Chapman says. “It effectively protects against UV-induced collagen destruction and photodamage by acting as an exfoliant and boosting cell renewal, thereby reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.” It can also normalise sebum production, making it ideal for oily or acne-prone skin.
Forms: Prescription formulas like Retin-A or retinoic acid can cause irritation in the short term but can also be beneficial for acne, photodamage and pigmentation. Over-the-counter formulas contain what are considered gentler vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl palmitate. Since retinol must convert into retinoic acid to be effective, experts warn that retinol derived from oils and herbs may not be as useful.
Suggested use: Vitamin A can stay in the skin for up to 72 hours, so it is advised that you apply the product every three days to start. It is best used at night as it degrades quickly when exposed to UV rays. Users should also apply sunscreen during the day for added protection. Prescription-strength formulas should not be used whilst pregnant or breastfeeding. They can also cause skin irritations such as breakouts, redness or dryness. If the skin’s condition has not improved within a month, experts suggest trying another formula.
Vitamin B
Benefits: Vitamin B is currently “in vogue” because its various strains can target a multitude of skin concerns. It is especially effective in evening and brightening the skin tone, and is water-soluble, making it one of the least irritating vitamins to the skin.
“Vitamin B complex – there are eight – promotes healthy cell growth and development, while Vitamin B5 promotes wound healing and reduces acne. Vitamin B3 is anti-inflammatory,” Nadeau says.
Forms: In skincare, the most common forms of vitamin B are panthenol, provitamin B5 and niacinamide. Niacinamide or vitamin B3 is used topically to reduce acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation, while panthenol and vitamin B5 are used to help repair barrier function and moisturise dry skin conditions.
Suggested use: As vitamin B is stable, over-the-counter formulas are effective (medical-strength forms are usually only prescribed for deficiencies and serious health concerns). “I generally use a niacinamide serum day and night, but that’s to control my tendency to rosacea,” Nadeau says. “For normal skin I suggest once a day; for mature skin twice a day if you like its effects.”
Vitamin C
Benefits: Vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants available and helps counteract the effects of free radicals and other environmental aggressors on the skin. “It aids the skin’s natural regeneration process and reduces the appearance of fine lines and discolouration,” Chapman says. “It also stimulates fibroblast activity, supercharging collagen production, boosting elasticity and keeping wrinkles at bay.”
Forms: Over-the-counter vitamin C products can be found in a variety of strengths, from gentle to intensive. L-ascorbic acid is commonly used, but not all skin types can tolerate it. Vitamin C derivatives such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (or THD ascorbate) are more stable and suitable for sensitive skins.
“Pay attention to percentages, especially with over-the-counter versus prescription formulas – you can’t compare them as one is standardised while others can vary from brand to brand,” Linkner says. “Start low and work up.”
Suggested use: Vitamin C loses potency when exposed to light, so look for formulas in dark bottles or airless packaging to prevent it from oxidising or losing potency. It can be used both during the day and night, although it works synergistically with sunscreen to boost sun protection.
Vitamin E
Benefits: Although commonly used for wound healing, vitamin E can have some great benefits for the skin. “This active has amazing antioxidant properties, not only working to regenerate our vitamin C levels, but also protecting our skin from environmental pollution,” Chapman says. “Vitamin E also helps to heal skin damage, including scars and even burns, as well as moisturise and provide anti-inflammatory benefits.”
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Forms: Tocopherol is the most common form used for skincare but avoid tocopherol acetate, which many people are unknowingly allergic to.
Suggested use: Vitamin E formulas tend to be comedogenic so can cause blemishes on oily skins. They also come in the form of rich creams, which are better used at night. Vitamin E is most effective when combined with other ingredients. “It stabilises oil blends, and in serums containing vitamin C you get a free-radical feedback loop that extends the antioxidant benefits beyond what you would get using the two vitamins separately,” Nadeau says.
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